Animals Galore

Preparing For Summer Vet Emergencies

2011-05-23T14:39:00.000-07:00

While perusing the American Vet Medical Association site I came across a great chart on pet first aid supplies - what to have on hand and when/how to use these supplies.

1. You'll need to know the followinging numbers, and it's always a great idea to have the numbers on hand BEFORE you need them. If you don't know the number of the emergency clinic in your area ask your veterinarian or go the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society web site (www.veccs.org) for a searchable list of ER clinics by state.

Veterinarian:

Emergency veterinary clinic:

Animal Poison Control Center:
888-4ANI-HELP (888-426-4435)
(there may be a fee for this call)

And, of course, your pet's medical record (including medications and vaccination history.)

2. Gauze - for wrapping wounds or muzzling the injured animal

3. Nonstick bandages, towels, or strips of clean cloth - to control bleeding or protect wounds

4. Adhesive tape for bandages - for securing the gauze wrap or bandage
*do NOT use human adhesive bandages (eg, Band-Aids®) on pets

5. Milk of magnesia or activated charcoal - to absorb poison
Always contact your veterinarian or local poison control center before inducing vomiting or treating an animal for poison

6. Hydrogen peroxide (3%) - to induce vomiting
Always contact your veterinarian or local poison control center before inducing vomiting or treating an animal for poison

7. Digital Thermometer —you will need a "fever" thermometer because the temperature scale of regular thermometers doesn't go high enough for pets
This thermometer is to check your pet's temperature.
Do not insert a thermometer in your pet's mouth—the temperature must be taken rectally.

8. Eye dropper (or large syringe without needle) - to give oral treatments or flush wounds

9. Muzzle (in an emergency a rope, necktie, soft cloth, nylon stocking, small towel may be used) - to cover your pet's head.
If your pet is vomiting, do not muzzle it!

10. Leash - to transport your pet (if your pet is capable of walking without further injury)

11. Stretcher (in an emergency a door, board, blanket or floor mat may be used) - to stabilize the injured animal and prevent further injury during transport

Please print out a copy of this checklist to use as a shopping list, and keep a copy on your refrigerator or next to your pet first aid kit for quick reference in emergencies.

And remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

Have fun this summer!

Spring Has Sprung

2011-05-17T10:33:00.000-07:00

The other day I wrote about ways to support urban wildlife in succeeding in building safe and cozy nests/dens for their young. Today I’d like to continue that trend and write about our support of the young’s survival, once they have arrived.

Our homes, garages and sheds are safe, warm and sheltered environments – a natural place for parents to gravitate for nesting. Squirrels, birds, rabbits, possums, skunk and raccoons, for example, will all find such locales quite inviting. So be careful when doing spring repairs. Prior to any finalizing of siding or soffit, etc. repairs tape newspaper over any cracks or holes. Wait about 24 to 36 hours, if the newspaper has been disturbed then some animal is entering and exiting. At this time of year a fair assumption is that animal is Mom and kids.

When cleaning and mowing your yard pay close attention to what’s in front of you. Turtles, tiny rabbit babies and other low to the ground animals could easily become fodder for your lawnmower.

Often we’ll come across “orphaned” babies. However, without taking the time to check out their “orphan” status we could do more harm than good by moving them. Usually babies left in the wild are not orphaned, their parents are simply foraging for food. Spend some time watching the “orphaned” baby – if after several hours no parent has returned to see to the baby then, and only then, seek aid from a wildlife rehabilitation center.

Once you ascertain the baby is an orphan call your list of wildlife rehabilitation centers to discuss with them proper means to transport the orphan to the center. Please, Please, Please do not attempt rehabilitation on your own. Wildlife centers have appropriate equipment and expertise geared to raising and training young to adulthood, with the goal of eventual release to the wild. Often, when we save the babies and raise them on our own we do so without proper education or knowledge, leaving the animals unfit for eventual wild release.

Lastly, be aware of who, how and where you remove animals which have decided your home looks like home to them, too. Often, simply waiting until the babies are weaned, fledged or have left the nest is the easiest solution. Once babies have grown the adults usually move on, too, and any repairs can easily be made at that time. With repairs comes the knowledge that you won’t have new boarders next year. Another tactic for safe eviction falls into the category of “this home isn’t as good as I thought.” Loud noises, noxious (but not harmful) smells, bright lights all fall into this category. With these events happening parents will often relocate to another of the den sites they had perused prior to claiming your home. If you can’t wait for the babies to grow please contact only humane wildlife service programs which don’t euthanize or relocate to unfamiliar territories.

And lastly, please do research and save the numbers and addresses of various wildlife centers in your area. Knowing who and when to call for help can make the difference between survival or not for our wild animal friends.

Tis The Season For Nesting

2011-05-11T09:41:00.000-07:00

Our urban wildlife look to what’s available to create safe havens within which to raise their young. Some bright and discerning eye might be able to spy detritus from the human environment gracing various nests. This detritus may consist of wire, plastic wrap, “invisible” tape, rubber bands, plastic string/fishing line and, believe it or not, cigarette butts. Such leavings from our lives can be deadly to the young being raised. Suffocation, strangulation, lethal entanglement and impalement are all possibilities with these materials.

So here are four tips for providing safe nesting materials.

What Do We Have Here: Birds and small animals use various natural items for their homes. A short list of such items include grasses, sticks, twigs, pine needles, feathers, rootlets, twigs, plant fluff and leaves. You can scatter such items over the ground, or if you don’t have a “as Nature intended” garden, place your clippings and cleanings in small and easily accessible bags/baskets hung from your fence or a branch.

Don’t touch Rule: Of course clean out the nesting boxes you provide annually – this maintains an element of cleanliness and helps prevent the spread of parasites. But leave the wild nests you find. Some birds return to their same nests year after year, some move into the abandoned nests of other birds, some stay in their home following the fledging of their young. Larger nests, especially squirrel nests, often become a resting place for raccoons and other arboreals. And, very importantly, while shed snake skins are quite lovely, let them lie. Many birds, such as the tufted titmice, flycatchers, and blue grosbeaks, weave them into their nests.

Oh So Soft: Leave the brush gleanings from your or your pets hairbrush out in the yard. Sparrows, tufted titmice and other birds love to line their nests with animal fur and hair. Other ideas for bedding include the untreated cotton from vitamin bottles, thin strips of natural cloth, yarn or string cut into lengths of no longer than six inches. And, if you enjoy the look of moss and lichen – which provide excellent bedding – encourage its growth between the pavers of a patio or wall by pouring yoghurt in those in-between spaces.

Keep It All Together: Spiderwebs are oh so sticky, as we all know. Hummers, kinglets and various warblers, among others, are also on to this secret, using webs to cement their nests together. So walk around all those webs between the bushes of your garden, don't knock them down. Other birds, such as robins, swallows and magpies, use mud to the same effect. So, find a shallow corner and keep it damp for the robins, et al.

Providing clean, chemical-free and safe nesting materials will encourage nesting within your line of sight. For that bit of effort you’ll be rewarded with months of entertainment as the little ones hatch, fledge and fly. Enjoy.

Summertime Pet Anxiety

2011-05-04T10:22:00.000-07:00

Well, it's almost here - thunderstorms, fireworks and the generalized noisy mayhem of summer. While we humans have a great time during this time of year celebrating Independence Day and enjoying lots of jubilant outside activities our furry friends may be overcome with noise anxiety.
On top of our (please read Human, there) celebrations, Mother Nature also adds her celebrations in the form of thunderstorms and windstorms. These loud and forceful assaults on our pets nervous systems can add to their overall summertime stress.

Here are some telltale signs of nervousness and anxiety in our pets:
Whimpering, mewing or howling
Chewing or biting furniture, clothing and other household items
Urinating or defecating around the home

Now, the good news. Yes, there are ways to reduce pet anxiety. Not all suggestions will work with all pets, nor will all suggestions be amenable to all owners. But here you go:

1. Crate Training
Many trainers and veterinarians believe in the necessity of providing a personal and cozy "den" for your dog. Crates do just that - give your pet their own home within the confines of the larger space of the family home.
Should crate training be part of your anxiety solution please avail yourself of various information re: proper training and usage of your crate.

2. Keep Your Pet Active
Insure enough daily exercise and play - this helps release pent-up energy and simultaneously reduces anxiety by oxygenating the brain and muscles.

3. Give Your Pet Plenty of Attention When You Are Home
Play with your pet when at home, praise your pet for times of quiet, snuggle, groom or just sit quietly with your pet.

4. Consider Using Natural Remedies to Ease Your Pet's Anxiety
Investigate the various natural remedies that are available that help manage nervousness. These products mimic the pheromone (an anxiety reducing hormone) naturally produced by mother dogs and cats to ease and relax their young. There are many products on the market. Some products contain natural flower essences and herbal mixtures (like Bach's Flower Essences)which also provide a calming effect, naturally.
Here is a list of some of the various products:
Be Serene
Composure Liquid
HomeoPet Anxiety Relief
Comfort Zone for Cats
Comfort Zone for Dogs

5. Discuss the Possibility of Prescription Anti-Anxiety Pet Meds With Your Veterinarian
Some pets are immune to the natural anti-anxiety remedies. If this is the case for your pet you have the option to discuss your pet's anxiety with your vet and consider anti-anxiety medication.
Here is a list of some of the various options:
Acepromazine
Amitriptyline
Clomipramine
Fluoxetine
Reconile

Hopefully, with all these suggestions, your pet will not suffer the "Thunderstorm Blues." I know I'll plan on putting several into effect as our weather becomes wilder.

Please note: I am not recommending any particular product, even tho I have mentioned it within this article.

Cats and Their Pee

2011-04-07T14:34:00.000-07:00

Talking with a friend the other day brought up the subject of why her cats were suddenly not using their litter box. Seems that they used to always use the box, never had "accidents" and were just all-around delightful home companions. Now, they almost never used the litter box and life within the home was getting a bit ripe.

So, I did some research. Here you go - what might be happening when cats don't use their litter boxes.

1. Please, first and foremost, have your cat checked at your vet. There are several life-threatening diseases which sometimes have as a marker erratic changes in bathroom habits. So, insure your cat is in good health first, and it's elimination habits are not a sign of disease.

2. Is your cat stressed? Stress is the second most prevalant reason cats change their bathroom habits. Stress to a cat means anything which is a change in the regularity of their environment.
So, visitors, moving, purchasing new furniture, adding new animals or household members, animals outside (read feral or neighborhood cats, dogs, wildlife, etc). In fact, almost anything can be stressful for your furry friend. And we just often don't know.

3. Dominance. If yours is a two (or more) cat household the dominant cat might be not using the litter box as a form of dominance. In the wild the dominant cat does not bury their waste, which indicates its status. And, even if you live in a one-cat household, your cat may be just stating
their dominance over you!

4. Cleanliness. Cats are fastidious. They don't like soggy or dirty feet. So if your litter box isn't regularly changed, cleaned, freshened they just might not choose to utilize it.

What to do if your cat isn't using the litter box.

As I mentioned earlier, first and most importantly, have your feline friend checked out by your vet.

Secondly, find ways to de-stress your cat.
Play with her a bit more.
If you must leave during the day keep her in a small room with her own things (which smell like you and her), fresh water and a clean litter box. That way, she has less stimulation and more control over her environment. As she settles down expand her territory.
Rub her bedding over any new objects you bring into the home - before you actually bring them into the home. That way they will already smell familiar and thus comfortable.

Insure the litter box is kept scrupulously clean.

Good luck. Cats are also creatures of habit, and once a habit is ingrained it is difficult to change. Remember, cats (like most all living beings) respond to praise, not punishment, so reward
her when she succeeds.

Please HELP!

2011-03-16T10:29:00.000-07:00

Here is a Japanese news vid of two dogs caught in the tsunami - one supporting the other, injured one.
These animals, and others struck by the tsunami need our help. Please send aid - visit: The Animal Rescue Site

Here is the video:

Connections Between Animal Abuse and Domestic Violence

2011-03-15T13:25:00.000-07:00

Recently a friend of mine needed to run from her husband because he had begun a pattern of physical abuse. Over the past several months she had been mentioning incidents of fear and coercion, some of which included her sweet and loving Westie, Carmine. That got me thinking about the insidious nature of domestic violence, and how often pets are injured or threatened.

Based upon my research from the National Coalition Against Domestic Violence, The American Humane Association and The United Animal Nations here are some quite startling stats:

• 68% of battered women report abuse to their pets, also. Of those abuses the majority (87%) happen in front of the woman as a form of psychological abuse and control.
• 71% of women in shelters who own pets stated that their pets had been injured, maimed, killed or threatened.
• 13% of intentional animal abuse cases involve domestic violence.
• Between 25 to 40% of battered women are afraid to leave the violence due to fear for the safety of their pets or livestock.

The above statistics show that battery against family members also include injury and abuse against the family pet. Thus when victims of domestic violence run from the violence not only do they run in fear of being found and further injured, they face the overwhelming challenge of somehow finding safety for themselves, their children and also their beloved pet.

When working on a safe plan many women find the information re: a safe house. If such a safe house does not accept pets then she faces the horrid dilemma: stay in the abusive environment herself or leave and know her pet is left in the hands of the abuser. What a dilemma. Most safe houses do not accept pets. They do accept children, but not pets. Only a very few, nationwide, accept pets. Based on my research, animals left behind when a woman runs from her abuser usually suffer grave abuse, torture and sometimes death.

The United Animal Nations does have a grant program which offers relief to victims of domestic violence who also have pets. This Crisis Relief For Individuals grant program offers financial assistance to victims so they won’t need to leave their pets behind when the woman finds shelter.

Here is a list of other Domestic Violence Safe Programs which have either off-site or on-site sheltering for victims and their pets:
1. Ahimsa House Safe Havens Directory
2. National Sexual Assault Hotline – 1-800-HOPE (4673)
3. National Coalition Against Domestic Violence
4. National Center on Domestic and Sexual Vilence
5. National Network To End Domestic Violence
6. Office on Violence Against Women
7. Pet Abuse.com
8. ASPCA

Throughout this column I have been referring to the abused as “her” – statistics show that the vast majority of abusers are male. By “vast majority” I mean 97%. That is why I’m using the female pronoun when referring to victims. I am definitely not being sexist. Thank you for your understanding.

Domestic violence is a terrible thing to face. Having children or pets also be abused makes it even more insidious. Please pass this information to anyone you think might be suffering from abuse. Thank you so much.

To Chain Or Not To Chain…

2011-03-07T16:04:00.000-08:00

Dog chaining, or keeping a dog outside, either chained or confined within a yard both day and night is inhumane. There, I’ve put out my point of view. Now, let me tell you why I believe that to be true.

1. Dogs are social animals. They need regular interaction with their “pack” – whether that “pack” is human or not is irrelevant. Without regular, predictable social interaction dogs become bored and lonely in their isolation. Such isolation can easily lead to, and usually does lead to aggressive behavior.

2. Dogs are also territorial animals. With chaining the mix of aggression and territorialness becomes a volatile mix. Other dogs, children and adults are in danger when approaching the border of the yard / end of the chain area. Aggressive dogs are unpredictable, especially to those who are not aware of the signs of hierarchy that dogs express. Most of us know a growl is something to be aware of. Do we all know that a stiff-legged gait is also a warning sign? Attacks toward people because they have strayed too close to the boundaries of the dogs’ space are too common.

3. Dogs respond to perceived threats in various ways. One of those ways is to flee, run away. However, a chained animal cannot run away. So, here again, an unfamiliar someone straying too close to the boundary of the dogs’ space could easily incite the tethered dog to fight, to attack.

4. Sadly, the chain of any dog can easily become tangled or enmeshed with other objects within the space. Sometimes even the dog itself is the entangler. This entanglement can lead to dog injury or death. And, quite sadly, tethered dogs are even stolen for dog-fighting operations or research facilities.

5. Sadly, it seems that chained dogs often suffer not only from lack of social interaction, ability to adequately respond to threats, and basic safety, but also often lack basic needs. Shade, shelter, food or water are frequently sorely absent from the area.

There you have it, my five reasons why I believe it’s inhumane to chain dogs. For information on how to address chaining please see This Page On The Humane Society Site

Thank you, all, for caring so much for your companion animals and not abusing them!

Festival of Freedom for "Unreachable" Animals

2011-03-01T11:07:00.000-08:00

The Limbe Wildlife Centre is part of the Harmony Fund circle of charity, which helps to sustain 16 animal rescue projects worldwide. This parrot release is part of their international Festival of Freedom and they're sharing this brief, joyful video of rescue footage to celebrate their ongoing mission to save the lives of animals others deem "unreachable."

Harmony Fund... please check them out

TV and our Furry Friends

2011-02-16T15:39:00.000-08:00

I was enjoying a movie at my daughter's home when I noticed how intently her two cats were paying attention to the screen. That caught my eye because my little puppy at home hardly even notices the TV screen - tho he really pays attention to most of the loud and interesting noises. So, I investigated.

Turns out, dogs don't have half the eyesight that cats do. Dogs pay attention to the world through hearing and smell. Cats pay attention to the world through sight and hearing, with smell coming in a distant third.

So, it seems cats really enjoy following the movements on the screen. Color doesn't seem to make a difference to their enjoyment/interest level, just the amount of movement. Thus most cats are sports fans - especially basketball!

Dogs, because their sight is so poor, just can't see the picture very clearly. Thus they are not as interested in what's happening on the screen. Can we say "nap" anyone?

They seem much more interested in the sounds, especially the loud and exciting ones. I've watched my little friend try to crawl around the back of the TV to check out the source of the sound. And from my research it looks as if my furry buddy isn't alone in that behavior.

Next time you are watching TV with your furry friends check out how much your cat pays attention and how much your dog snoozes until the noisy, interesting parts.

Tidbits Of Interest

2011-01-26T18:47:00.000-08:00

I've been picking up interesting facts about the various pets we keep. Thought I'd share the wealth...

Rats can tread water for up to three days!!!

Porcupines and guinea pigs are relatives.

Tortoise live only on land, and can live for 100 years. Anyone naming the care of their tortoise in their will???

Gerbils communicate with each other vocally with squeaks and chirps. Their hearing is so very acute, especially in the very low frequency range (outside of most human hearing) People need to be quite close to them to hear them talking.

Most birds - no matter what the species - want lots of noise and kerfluffle about them. Perhaps a reminder of being in the wild, foraging for food and living within their social networks. So your pet avian will want to live in the busiest room of your home, close to the action.

Somehow some scientist found a way to measure the memory of a goldfish. They discovered it's about 3 seconds. Now I don't feel so badly about all those fish my children kept - they never knew they were in confined spaces filled with plastic plants.

Not a household pet - but interesting info on the tiger's paw and claws. Most claws, both the five on the front and the four on the rear, average 3-4" in length. And their prints are "pug marks".

Well, that's all the fun stuff for today. When I have a handful of new, interesting stuff to pass along, well, then I shall.

It's Cold In Here!!!

2011-01-17T12:46:00.000-08:00

Last time I wrote I was discussing the need for sweaters for our critters outdoor comfort during this cold season. Today, let's think about their indoor comfort.

Winter weather is cold, damp and generally yukky. And as our pets become older this kind of weather aggrivates sore, arthritic joints. Since we can't just pop an OTC pain killer into their food ( please remember, aspirin is potentially toxic to cats), here is a list of some things you can do to help alleviate their uncomfort.

1. Check with your vet to see if prescribed meds would be helpful.

2. Insure their favorite sleeping place is warm and soft.
Small dogs and cats: lambs wool or substitute seems to be the all
around fav.
Large dogs seem to prefer waterbeds or the egg-crate-like foam
bedding available at fabric stores.

3. Heat is great! The older our pets become the more difficulty they have in thermoregulating. So provide some form of constant, low heat. A heating pad, or reptile warmer, or an "official" made-for-pets heated bed are options. Just insure both that there is enough insulation between the heat source and your pet, and that the heat provided never becomes too warm for sensitive skin - no burns allowed!

4. Provide support for those high spots. You know, jumping up to the couch, or the bed, or even climbing up and down stairs all jostle aged joints. Think of providing shallow steps for getting to the couch or bed. Carpeting the steps will help prevent slippage. And keep your home quieter, too.

With you providing warmth and snuggly softness your pet will suffer the cold far less, and be much happier. A great trade-off.

Keep Them Warm

2011-01-12T09:44:00.000-08:00

It's Doggie and Kittie sweater season, folks! I'm looking outside at freezing rain lashing down onto the snow that accumulated all last evening, and checking my Droid tells me it's 37' and feels like 29'. Wow. Taking my little one for a walk necessitates me bundling up, and in this temperature, bundling him up, too. After all, he lives most of his life indoors, in heated rooms.

So, providing a jacket or sweater for your companion animal is a necessity, not a cutesy thing.

Proper fit is paramount to provide insulation.
if the sweater is too tight there is no room for the loft of the fibers to expand and thus provide its insulative effect. So, measure your animal from the base of neck to base of tail. Now measure around the chest.

Most sweaters give you the length measurement of that sweater. Always round up in size if your animal's length exceeds the sweater's length.

You will have to measure the chest circumference of the sweater yourself. So take Fido, or a tape-measure along when shopping. Again, round up in circumference, or size to provide the greatest chance for actual warmth.

Hope that helps. Now, walk long, staying healthy, warm and dry!

Voyage of the Dawn Treader

2011-01-03T12:02:00.000-08:00

Last night my sweetie and I went to see the Narnia series newest installment: Voyage of the Dawn Treader. As a Narnia fan from way back in childhood I was excited. And the movie left me feeling good all over.

Not to give the story away - for those of you who didn't read the series in your youth - let's just say there are dragon, of course, and the requisite talking mouse.

But the reason I mention the movie here, in this blog about pets, is because so much of the main intent of the Narnia series is learning to live with kindness. Then living in knowledge of truth and beauty in ourselves, and from that place of truth and beauty being the best person we can be.

Of course that means offering the best to our companion animals, also. There are some touching moments with a young dragon coming to terms with his life and the humans and other animals supporting that growth with compassion. I enjoyed it. You might, too.

Teaching EMT's to Save Animals, Too

2010-12-06T15:23:00.000-08:00

While sitting around a waiting room I picked up a magazine I never usually read and found the most amazing story...the story of Veterinarian Janet Olson.

Background:
- husband is firefighter
- answering a call the firefighters were unable to save a beloved pet of fellow firefighter

Response:
- Janet recognized firefighters didn't have necessary training/equipment for animal resuscitation/rescue
- 2004 Project BART began

Project BART: Basic Animal Rescue Training

This training program, currently only in Minnesota and at that, only in one local fire department, is a non-profit funded by grants and donations and staffed by volunteers. The progam certifies firefighters and first responders in handling of animals in medical emergencies - basic first aid and CPR to dogs and cats and handling of larger animals.

Over 4,000 first responders have been trained by the volunteer instructors (who are either vets, vet techs or vet students). Once trained, the fire department is given a cat and dog ER kit, complete with animal sized oxygen masks, restraint and handling aids, reference materials and contact information to local vet clinics.

As I said earlier, this program is currently only in Minnesota, but Dr. Olson is working to bring the training program to other cities and states.

For more information please see: http://basicanimalrescuetraining.org/

or their FB page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Basic-Animal-Rescue-Training/27115887741

Pet Travel Sites

2010-12-01T16:17:00.000-08:00

Well, in my short time with AllExperts.com I truly have learned quite a bit about where to go to find out current, specific and thorough information re: taking your pet with you - locally or internationally.

I thought I'd share the wealth! So here are a few of the websites I've used in my research:

1: This link takes you to the official UK website for wildlife:

http://www.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-pets/pets/travel/pets/procedures/support-info/documents.htm#1

2: This site is an all-around good info site for both the US and international travel:

http://www.pettravel.com/

3: This is the AKC site with info on air travel for dogs. Info based mostly in the US, however the Canine Travel Tips are relavant for anywhere:

http://www.akc.org/airtravel/

4: This Delta Air site has a plethora of pet travel info related to air travel:

http://www.delta.com/planning_reservations/special_travel_needs/pet_travel_information/domestic_international_pet/index.jsp

5: This site is specific to travel within the US, however it has a nifty chart of airlines and requirements for pet travel:

http://www.dogfriendly.com/server/travel/airtravel/airpettravel.shtml

6: Another site for all-around travel with your pet info:

http://www.petfriendlytravel.com/airtravel

7: And this site if specific to moving your pet - without you, just your pet:

http://flypets.com/

Now, in no way am I advocating you transport your companion animal by air, unless they can accompany you in the cabin. However, I am aware there are times we must choose between the lesser of two "evils." I thought I'd offer info to you, my readers, which I have gleened. Good and safe traveling!

AllExperts Answers Your Questions!

2010-11-22T15:54:00.000-08:00

There is this nifty site out there in cyberspace where you can get all your questions answered! Isn't that just too cool?

I ran across this site several months ago, used their volunteer experts - asking about a home repair/building project I had and was quite pleased with the result. As a consequence I signed up to be an "expert" in pet travel.

Now, I have done a lot of travel, especially with dogs and reptiles, but I'm not a veterinarian or specially trained. However, I am very willing to research. I figure that gives me "expert" status - especially scince I don't claim actual expert status in my bio. And, in the process of researching answers to the questions I've been given I have found out so very much about international travel, especially with dogs.

This AllExperts site has experts in all areas, a place to present your question to the expert, a bio of the specific person to whom you are questioning, and a evaluation criteria.

Here's the link:
Allexperts.com
Go check them out!

Christmas Shopping, Anyone?

2010-11-17T11:17:00.001-08:00

I know, I know - it's not even Thanksgiving, yet. But with all the malls and downtown shopping cores decked out in tinsel and lights since prior to Halloween I thought maybe others would, like me, be thinging about gifts for the adored on their lists. Not only their companion animals, but perhaps also family members and friends.

With that in mind I thought I'd memtion some of the wonderful resources out there which also offer gifting in return to our animal friends.

My favorite, of course, is checking out the Humane Society of the US site.

Here you will find gifts for all on your list... kids will enjoy the books and games, adults can easily find household goods, jewelry and personalized items for that special someone. And of course, there are oh, so many items celebrating our love for our furry or feathered friends.

I am entranced with this pig ornament... it looks way too much like Piglet from the Winnie-The-Pooh series. And I have such fond memories of my father reading me one chapter of each book every evening during one of my childhood illnesses. Ah, the lazy, hazy days of childhood...

OK, enough of remeniscing - my second most favorite gift catalog is offered by the World Wildlife Fund. Here every gift you purchase goes directly to supporting worldwide conservation efforts. Specifically, your gift supports creating and continuing solutions facing habitate loss, poaching, pollution, climate change - to mention a few issues WWF tackles.

Purchaseing a gift from the WWF catelogue is more symbolic in that you are "adopting" an animal. There are several levels of "adoption" - and each level brings differing gifts. The first level offers an adoption certificate, picture of the animal you are "adopting" and a species information card. The second level offers all of the first level and a plush species animal. There are four levels of "adoption" with increasingly larger gifts.

Animals are adoptable from all areas of the world - the Artic, North America, Mexico/Central America, Africa, etc. Many of my family gifts are chosen from this catelogue. For more details and to see lots of great pictures of endangered or critically endangered species you would be helping please go to: http://worldwildlife.org/gifts.

Happy Shopping!

Book Report: The Art of Racing in the Rain

2010-11-08T15:01:00.000-08:00

Just finished a fun read: The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein

This book, written in the voice of the family dog, Enzo, explores the growth of Enzo’s human owner as he responds to the tragedies of his life. Denny, the human, is a race car driver, which can be yet another reason to try out this book.

The book is a short and fun read, a bit on the schmaltzy side, and quite humorous. I thoroughly enjoyed hearing about life through a dog’s perspective – even if the dog seems to think like a human. And let’s face it, most of us really do believe our companion animals understand the world just like us.

Leaves, Falling leaves, Glorious Leaves

2010-11-08T06:27:00.000-08:00

Running through the leaves, jumping into the leaves, creating a storm of leaves is just way too much fun!

Over the weekend my puppy and I decided to really enjoy the Indian Summer weather and take an extended jaunt in the local park. We scrabbled up the hill through the crisp, shockingly maroon and yellow leaves to the crown of cedars standing silent sentinel. Moving from the deeply drifted leaves scrunching dryly underfoot into the springy, loamy-brown softness of fallen cedar needles overloaded my senses. He must have been in doggie heaven with all the scents abounding. I simply stood still - nose working overtime, pulling in dry leaf scent feathered with warm, clean cedar underlaid by damp, musky earth.

The parks department had been working overtime blowing the leaves into composting piles. What an inticement. We dashed and scampered through those piles, scattering showers of brillian orange, gold, blood red and royal brown exposions into the crisp air.

Replete, satisfied and feeling One with All we turned away from the hillside and began our trek homeward just as the clouds lowered, angered and burst open. Perfect timing!

October - National Pet Wellness Month

2010-10-27T17:38:00.000-07:00

You all know how much I enjoy perusing the web for great information re: our pet companions and their health and wellbeing. Well, I came across a great health site: National Pet Wellness (http://www.npwm.com). That site stated October to be National Pet Wellness Month. I now understand, with more research, that the American Veterinarian Medical Association and Fort Dodge Animal Health, the National Pet Wellness Campaign sponsor National Pet Wellness Month.

So, here’s to celebrating October: National Pet Wellness Month.
Now, going from the ridiculous to the sublime I’d like to include a short video put out by the folks at NPW, as a reminder to us of possible pet risks. So grab your popcorn and enjoy…

Back to the serious side of life, as pet companion/owners we do have a responsibility to insure our pets safety and health. The rule of thumb is cats and dogs age about seven times faster than humans. So part of our responsibility is to give them wellness exams twice yearly. With twice yearly visits detection, treatment and hopefully, prevention of risk and ill health.

Secondly, providing proper nutrition is important to pet health. The food/diet your pet eats provides the building blocks for energy level, weight management, skin health, internal organ health, intestinal health and brain functioning. High quality, nutrition packed food is a must. You have the choice to go with commercial foods or homemade diets – there are pros and cons to both. However, any good food will provide a shiny coat, bright eyes, consistently high energy levels and little flatulence.

Dental care is also quite important. I have already written a lengthy column re: dental care, so just the basics here. Daily brushing, or at the minimum, an oral plaque-prevention rinse is an important part of any wellness campaign. Couple that with veterinarian-prescribed teeth cleaning and you’re doing well.

Exercise is very important to the all-around health and wellbeing of your pet. Regular exercise offers bonding time with your pet, muscle building and toning – which helps prevent age-related diseases and general malaise, excess energy reduction, brain activity (how else can your pet “read the doggie newspaper” if they’re not out playing?) and just plain fun. Oh, and exercise also aids in preventing pet obesity.

Basic grooming for most dogs and cats means a monthly nail trip, bath and brushing. Of course, specific breeds do need special care – you know who you are…

One of the things I recently learned is that often animals work to conceal any illness they might have. So learn to pay attention to some of the warning signs. These signs include: sleeping too much suddenly, sleeping too little suddenly, limping, not eating, not drinking, drinking in excess, bloody stool, runny stool over time, nervousness, shying away from you, changes in behavior which you can’t explain. This list is not exhaustive, of course. But any time you are concerned about the health of your animal, check it out with your veterinarian.

I ran across a cool little graphic, a visual of medical threats to dogs – what the problem is, what happens to the animal, how to treat and how to prevent. Here’s the link:

Cool Graphic Visual of Medial Threats to Dogs

So, go! Enjoy your pet during this National Pet Wellness Month. And please, keep in mind your responsibility to your pal and keep him or her safe and healthy. Thanks.

Playing In Seattle – Off-Leash Parks for Dogs in Seattle, WA

2010-10-19T17:44:00.000-07:00

Green Seattle, the Emerald City, is a canine heaven. Why, there are even 11 parks specifically made for the canine set! Seattle Parks Department maintains and manages all of the numerous parks and gardens within the city limits, including the areas specifically set aside for off-leash playing.

The off-lease parks are usually set near or within the boundaries of a larger human park, complete with parking and on-leash walking trails. Also, the off-leash areas are conveniently spread over all areas of the city.

Off-leash Parks:

- Dr. Jose Rizal Park at 1008 12th Ave. S
- Genesee Park and Playfield at 4316 Genesee St.
- Golden Gardens Park at 8498 Seaview Pl. NW
- I-5 Colonnade beneath I-5, south of E. Howe St.
- Northacres Park at 12718 1st Ave. NE
- Plymouth Pillars Park at Boren Ave. and Pike St.
- Renegade Park at 2251 3rd. Ave.
- Sam Smith Park at 1400 Martin Luther King Jr. Way S.
- Warren G. Magnuson Park at 7400 Sand Point Way NE
- Westcrest Park at 9000 8th Ave. SW
- Woodland Park at Aurora Ave. N. and N. 59th St.

Of course there are guidelines for using the off-leash areas. They are common sense and appropriate. I have copied them from the City website below:

YO, HUMANS!
* You are liable for damage or injury inflicted by your dog(s) (SMC 18.12.080).
* You must be in control of your dog(s) at all times (SMC 18.12.080).
* You must muzzle dogs that exhibit dangerous or aggressive behavior; biting, fighting, and excessive barking are not allowed (SMC 9.25.024).
* You must leash your dog when it is outside the off-leash area; you must carry a leash for each dog while you are inside the off-leash area (SMC 9.25.084 and 12.18.080).
* You must clean up after your dog(s) and deposit feces in the containers at the site, and you must visibly carry scoop equipment (SMC 9.25.082 and 18.12.080).
* You must closely supervise young children.
* Bring food into off-leash areas at your own risk.
* Leave bicycles outside off-leash area.
* Unattended dogs are not allowed in off-leash areas.
* Owners who see unattended dogs or other rule violations should call Animal Control at 206-386-7387, Extension 2.

YO, DOGS!
* If you're female and you're in heat, you are not allowed in off-leash areas (SMC 9.25.084).
* If you're a puppy younger than four months of age, you are not allowed in off-leash areas.
* To come and play in off-leash areas, you need to be licensed and vaccinated (SMC 9.25.080 and 12.18.080).
* If you wear a pinch or choke collar, ask your human to remove it when you come into off-leash areas.

As you can see, the regulations allow for safety without taking the fun-factor away from use of the off-leash areas. So, if you live in the Greater Seattle, WA area – come on down, the off-leash parks are fine!

Amazing Video of Dog Saving Another Dog on the Freeway!

2010-10-09T07:15:00.000-07:00

Keeping Your Pet Safe This Halloween

2010-10-06T19:49:00.001-07:00

I can hardly believe it! It’s almost Halloween… one of my favorite times of the year. I love all the excitement, the costumes, the candy, the decorations, and did I mention the candy?

Our animal friends, on the other hand, just might find this time of year, this holiday, a bit too scary for them.

1. The days before, and the day of Halloween can be hazardous for your pet – especially dark colored cats. Please follow the advice of the ASPCA and keep your cats and dogs indoors during this time of year. Too many cases of malicious pet torture and injury are reported, don’t let your pet become a statistic.

2. Costumes are such fun – all ages enjoy dressing for the season. If you are a pet owner who enjoys dressing your pet in a costume please see that some basic safety measures are followed. Masks should be avoided completely – they can inhibit your animals’ sense of sight and smell – both of which are necessary for your pet to know what’s happening around them. If your pet becomes confused through sight or smell inhibition they can become stressed – which could lead to irritability, snapping behavior, or fearful, hiding/ running away behavior.
Costumes should be manufactured to be worn similarly to a sweater or jacket. Any trailing aspect of a pet costume – a cape, for instance, needs to attach in such a way as to not put stress on to the neck of your pet. Rubber bands in any part of your pet’s costume must be avoided. Because of their elasticity they burrow into the animal’s skin, resulting in injury or choking. And, just as in children’s costumes, insure your pet’s costume is not flammable.
Please leave off any face/body paint or cream. Skin irritation or rash can easily result from any body paint use.

3. Candy – the piece de resistance of Halloween – can be quite toxic for your pet. Chocolate is deadly to both cats and dogs. Ask your children to keep their candy to themselves. This is not a time to encourage sharing! Signs of toxicity are the following: hyperactivity, excessive drooling, vomiting and diarrhea, muscle tremors and/or seizures, and coma. An immediate trip to the Vet ER is called for if your pet exhibits any of those signs. But more than the candy itself, it’s the hazards of candy wrappers that’s concerning. Tin-foil or cellophane or plastic wrappers, as well as lollypop sticks, can become serious digestive obstructions, when swallowed, necessitating an emergency trip to your veterinarian.

4. Halloween Night – the ghosties and ghouls and fairies come to call. Your pet might not recognize the Trick-or-Treaters as neighborhood kids, or even as human because of the shape, size of their costumes and the masking scent of the fabrics. As a result, your pet might be more aggressive or fearful. To protect your pet keep them on a leash when answering the door, or in another room behind a closed door. This also helps to prevent any escaping through that opened-to-the-ghosties door your pet might do.
Also, when you go out trick-or-treating, leave your pet at home. The sounds, smells and bustle might be too much for your pet, resulting in a run-away or an aggressive incident.

5. Jack-o-lanterns and other candles pose a hazard to our curious pets. Paws and tails can easily be burned. No burning candle should be left unattended for even a second.

6. Pet ID – In case of the accidental escape, insure your pet has a current and accurate ID tag. Microchip them, if possible. The sights and sounds can be quite stressful, resulting in running behavior. ID tags and microchipping are insurance of return.

Halloween is great fun. With proper precautions for your pets, they can also enjoy this holiday.

Halloween Costumes

2010-09-29T16:37:00.000-07:00

It’s time! The Great Pumpkin is coming and your favorite dog or cat might just want to be prepared. So I’ve lined up a few places that cater to canine or feline couture, as well as the discriminating taste of the companion animal owner… Here goes…

EntirelyPets has a great line of dog and cat costumes. They come in various sizes, and most are conveniently worn like jackets or sweaters.

Also, Petco has many types of costumes. Bandannas, leashes, collar covers, headbands/ears proliferate down their aisles. And, of course, the traditional full-body costumes styled as jackets are in abundance, too.

Safety: I was specifically looking at safety with things like capes. It’s quite important that all items that float or flutter are attached to the costume in such a way as to not provide a choking hazard. So having the costume be styled like a jacket lessens that worry.

Secondly, headbands need to be carefully checked – are they something that can be chewed and then provide a choking hazard? If so, better pass that up. We all know how our furred friends like to chew.

Another safety concern – collar covers. Collar covers offer an easy and amusing way to dress up your pet without the frills or concerns of a full costume. However, check the fit of the collar once you add the cover. It’s important you are able to fit several fingers under the collar easily
.
I’m all excited for a Bootiful Halloween, even tho it is still September. I’m planning what my little guy will wear when I open the door for the other, neighborhood “frights.” Let me know what you decide – costume or not, and what type, if you do.

It's Getting Close - Halloween!

2010-09-27T15:55:00.000-07:00

The leaves are turning, showering down in gorgeous crimsons and golds. While walking my little guy I'm noticing other dogs bouncing thru the baby drifts of leaves, spreading chaos. It seems each dog has it's own costume - a leafy hat, or perhaps a trailing multi-colored boa.

That got me thinking about costumes. So, fearless reader, I'm off to research costumes! And look for pictures. Do you have any pictures of your buddy in costume? Send them in, let us all see them - what a treat!
Be back tomorrow with more info on costumes.

Canine Dental Care

2010-09-22T10:23:00.001-07:00

OK, true to my word – here is some important information re: keeping your dog healthy by providing good oral hygiene for her/him.

Did you know that most dogs don’t get cavities? And, just like people, our companion animals are living longer and longer. Even with this longer life span, they still usually don’t get cavities. I was getting jealous until I learned that even without getting cavities, the most sever medical problems our dogs face are dental problems. An American Animal Hospital Association study recently found that about two thirds of pet owners do not provide their animals with recommended dental care.

Why is it so important to provide regular and thorough dental care? It is the most sever medical problem facing our canine population, today. About 80% of dogs by age 3 have some form of dental disease. And dental disease doesn’t just stop in the mouth. As it advances, infections may travel to include the heart, liver or kidneys.

Dental disease begins with a buildup of food particles and bacteria along the gum line. This buildup is called plaque. If the plaque is not removed through regular brushing, minerals in the dogs’ saliva transform the plaque into a strongly solidified, slimy, unsightly yellow-brown coating at the base of the teeth called calculus or tartar. The plaque begins its solidification process within 36 hours of forming. The accumulation of tartar irritates the gums, resulting in gum inflammation, or a redness and puffiness. The dog usually has bad breath at this point.

Once there is tartar buildup your dog has the beginnings of periodontal disease. With the buildup of tartar the only form of removal is a veterinarian visit to have your dog’s teeth professionally cleaned.

The hardened tartar is rough – a great place for more tiny food particles to adhere, which in turn encourages greater bacteria growth. Your dog’s gums don’t like the growth of the bacteria and plaque and recede away from it, loosening and pulling away from the firm hold around each tooth the gums once had. With this loosening a pocket is formed between the tooth and the gum, which in turn holds even more food particles and bacteria. Once pockets have formed your dog has irreversible damage, leading to loosening of the teeth, abscess, bone loss and/or infection of the area.

With the continued growth of bacteria, the continued formation of plaque and tartar the possibility of infection and bacteria entering the bloodstream rises. Possible results include endocarditis or infection of the heart valves, as well as infections of the liver or kidneys.

As with any problem, being aware of the possibility is the first step toward prevention. That awareness includes both in-home and veterinarian checks of your dogs teeth. Veterinarians should check the teeth of puppies and young dogs (to the age of 3) every 6 months, and adult dogs (age 3 to 6 years) annually. Dogs older than 6 years might need to be checked on a semi-annual basis.

Optimally, at-home checks are preformed weekly. To inspect your dog’s teeth very gently lift their lips and look all around the mouth – in front, in back and inside the mouth, if possible. You are looking for:

Red or puffy gums
Bleeding gums
Brownish/yellow build up around the base of the teeth – this is tartar, a solidified coating formed from a build- up of plaque, and not a good thing
Missing or loose teeth
Bad breath

At-home mouth exams are a great start toward good dental care, however exams are never a prevention. As in us pet owners, a dental care program that includes teeth brushing is the only from of prevention. Impeding the growth of plaque and tartar is the best defense against any dental disease. And that means brushing your dog’s teeth.

So, how do you brush your dog’s teeth? Rule number one: begin when they are only a puppy. However, if you didn’t start then, begin as soon as possible. Here are some suggestions:

Brush at least 3-4 times weekly, daily if possible - remember, plaque starts solidifying into a shell of tartar around your dog’s teeth within about 36 hours, and then needs a vet trip to remove.
NEVER use human toothpaste – it contains fluoride and other things that could easily sicken your dog.
Use a canine toothpaste – they usually are chicken or beef flavored and have an enzymatic action which helps
reduce the growth of the plaque bacteria.
Use either a special, longer handled, dog tooth brush or a “finger brush” –when first beginning the brushing process the finger brush might be easier for both you and your dog.
Your veterinarian might be able to show you techniques that could make brushing easier for you and your dog.

In addition to regular tooth brushing there are other ways you can provide for dental health. Feed your dog high quality, crunch, dry dog food. Soft, canned dog food stays on the teeth and encourages the buildup of plaque. In addition, you can provide your dog with a Veterinary Oral Health Council of Acceptance approved canine chew product. These products include the following:

Canine Bright Bites and Checkup Chews for Dogs
Canine Greenies®, Greenies Senior® and Greenies Lite®
Del Monte Tartar Check® Dog Biscuit, any size
Friskies Cheweez Beefhide Treats for Dogs
Hartz Flavor Infused Oral Chews, any size
Healthymouth Antiplaque water Additive
Plaque atacker dental toys – rope, toys or rawhide chips
Tartar Shield Soft Rawhide Chews for Dogs
Vetradent Dog Chews, can be also sold as Bluechews and Tiny Toy Dental Chews

There are also several crunchy dog foods which are formulated to help prevent plaque buildup. Please see your veterinarian for advice in foods formulation.

Veterinary dentistry, like human dentistry, is common, sophisticated and thorough. Some veterinarians specialize in pet dentistry and thus are Board-certified. We, as pet owners, have many avenues available to us to provide quality dental care to our pets. Your veterinarian can provide specific suggestions geared toward your dog and his/her personal habits. However, the most important one thing you can do for your pet is provide regular tooth brushing. The second most important thing is, having your dog’s teeth cleaned regularly by your veterinarian. Join the band wagon of providing good dental care for your pet.

Dental Care

2010-09-20T15:23:00.000-07:00

Well, I've been quite busy this past several days. My little dog suddenly (it seemed to me) developed important dental issues which needed care. It seemed, even though I was brushing his teeth and also providing an enzymatic mouth cleanser to his teeth several times weekly, that just wasn't enough. He needed to have four teeth removed! And one was abscessed. YUCK.

Well, the procedure took us both by surprise. He didn't respond well to anesthesia, nor the surgery and went into a shock-like state for days. Seems he ended up with sever anemia from the blood loss, and that led to seizure-like behavior. Wow. We were really worried.

My little guy was too sick to even eat. He lost 4.8 pounds over the period of five days - and he only weighed 21 pounds to begin with. Now, I do grant you, he is at a better weight for his breed and age - but what a way to get there!

My story does have a happy ending - he's on the mend, eating and finally bouncing around with the best of them.

But as a result of this emergency, I have become interested in dental problems. I've been wanting to write about tortoises and turtles, but they just might need to wait.

So, stay tuned for more on dental issues.

Really? They do that?

2010-09-15T15:47:00.000-07:00

In wandering through the internet jungle I’ve come across several interesting factoids regarding animals in general. Since I was so interested and amused by these tidbits, I thought I’d pass them on. So here goes…

Pet rats are descended from the feared and much aligned Norway Rats. It seems that sailors grew lonely on board ship for those many months of seafaring and began taming some of the rats who snuck aboard. Thus, many of the pet rat breeds are believed to be great-great-great… grandchildren of the Norway Rat.

Fish in general have survived on Earth for over 450 million years! Wow, how would you get all those candles to fit on a cake? Because they have survived and for so many years there are a great many species, in fact, over 25 thousand species of fish have been identified. In the pet world, tropical fish are the most popular pet. And, every known color is found on some species of fish. We can make a wriggling rainbow!

We’ve all watched a Cat meticulously clean and groom themselves. But did you know that cats in general have a special order to the process of their grooming? This process is named “autogroom.” Almost always cats ( 1.) Groom their head and face, then (2.) move to their front legs, shoulders, sides and hind area, then (3.) finish with their tail – base to tip.

The Arctic Tern sets the record for length of migration – round trip of over 20 thousand miles annually! These terns nest within the Arctic Circle then travel to the Antarctic following breeding. Seems they enjoy the sun as they are in the Arctic during the Northern Hemisphere summer and Antarctic during the Southern Hemisphere summer.

The animals which surround us have varying maximum speeds. Here are a few: The Golden Eagle, at 120 mph, is the fastest flier. The Housefly, at 5 mph, is the slowest flier. Cheetahs, at 65 mph, are the fastest on land and Turtles, at one-tenth of a mile an hour, are the slowest. And in the water the Sailfish, at 30 mph, is the fastest, while the Goldfish, at 4 mph, is the slowest.

Horses have monocular vision. That means they see a different image with each eye so that they see two different pictures at the same time. Wow, that would make me dizzy.

And, lastly, lets talk about teeth. The Sperm Whale has a tooth about the size of an average jar of peanut butter. That just seems too small, to me. On the other hand, I’m glad I don’t have the teeth of a Shrew – which is smaller than a grain of rice.

What If All Licensed Pets Were Microchipped?

2010-09-06T19:02:00.000-07:00

You know the drill – you’re walking contentedly down the street and look up to spy a “Lost Dog” poster mounted on the phone pole. You take a moment to read it, scan your memory to see if the description or picture sparks any recognition, then shake your head in sorrow as you walk on, wishing them the best in their search for their beloved companion. It’s a rather common scenario, especially after a major fireworks event or thunderstorm.

Then, while reading the news a couple of days later you notice a small headline, “City Government Mandates Microchipping of All Licensed Pets”. Interesting, you muse, remembering the lost dog poster you passed. You read on. It seems the city council has voted to phase in automatic microchipping of both cats and dogs, to be completed at their annual license renewal. However, because microchipping is completed at the veterinarians, the program will be phased in over a two year period. Expected rate of compliance is approximately 84% - the compliance rate of dog licensure. Penalty for non-compliance, you read, is tiered. First offense is a warning, second is a small fine and third is a mandatory stay at the city shelter for the pet to be microchipped, and all fees paid by the animal’s owner. Further reading informs you that dogs and cats are licensed in this city, but other animals (ferrets, hamsters, turtles, other reptiles, pigs , horses, goats, etc) tho they can be microchipped, are not included in the mandatory law as they are not licensed.

Lots of questions swarm through your brain. All licensed pets microchipped… who benefits? How much does it cost? Who pays? How? Will it help? If so, what will it help? How?

Microchipping – the application of a rice-sized implant under the skin of your pet between the shoulder blades – aids in the recovery of your pet if s/he’s lost or stolen. The small device emits a radio frequency which is easily picked up on a hand held scanner. The chipping usually takes place in a vet’s office quickly and easily, with no anesthetic required. The microchip is injected under the skin by a syringe, then scanned to ensure it is sending properly and can be easily read. Then the pet owner registers the chip number, the animal and owner characteristics and contact information with either their vet or to the registry of that specific brand of microchip. Microchipping is done once in a pet’s lifetime, and lasts for the pet’s lifetime, under normal conditions.

Benefits of microchips:
• Quick, safe and easy identification of animals picked up by animal control or turned into animal control shelters or vets offices.
• Reduction of animal control expense of housing, feeding, provision of medical care, etc. to pets because microchipped pets are quickly and safely reunited with their owners.
• Owners of pets easily benefit by quick and safe return of their lost or stolen animals, with microchipped cats being returned over 20 times more than non-microchipped cats, and microchipped dogs returned 2.5 times more than non-microchipped dogs (http://researchnews.osu.edu/archive/shelterchip.htm for the actual national study itself).

Problems of microchips:
• Scanner error – use of non-universal microchip scanner (rare as more offices use the newer, universal ISO standard scanner technology).
• Failure of microchip to emit designated radio waves (quite rare).
• Difficulty in detection due to migration of chip (again, rare), wriggling animal or metal on collars which interfere with scanner. These problems are mitigated by facilities scanning multiple times during the stay of the animal in the facility.
• Pet owner error – failure to keep contact information current with the microchip registry (most common problem – a bit over 30% of microchipped animals are unable to be reunited with their owners because of lack of current contact information).
• Please note: British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) began a database in 1996 of adverse reactions to microchips. Their database states of the over 4 million animals microchipped, as of late 2009 there had been only 391 reported adverse reactions. (http://www.avma.org/issues/microchipping/microchipping_bgnd.asp for full report).

Costs Related to Microchipping:
• Initial cost of implant – between $25 – 75.00.
• No further monetary costs to pet owner, however there is the cost of time and memory to keep the registry updated of all moves and phone number changes.
• Veterinary offices and shelters have scanner and chip costs, including upgrading of equipment.

In my fantasy world where all pets are microchipped we would easily find our lost or stolen companions. All clouds have a silver lining. Every pet owner would keep their contact information current in the registries. And the “Lost Pet” posters pinned to the phone poles would become a thing of the past.

Lost Your Pet? Here's Help!

2010-09-03T15:29:00.000-07:00

While perusing the internet airwaves today I ran across this wonderful company: Find Toto - Bringing Your Lost Pet Home. Using information which you provide on your pet this service enters your address into a mapping grid and begins the search process. First, many, many phone calls are made to your neighbors informing them of the lost animal and giving them your number to phone, or the Find Toto website where they can view a description/picture of your pet, just to check. Then they contact you with any and all information.

They have an Iphone app so you can keep track of your success. And they are members of the Better Business Bureau. I really like that.

Their prices seem reasonable, beginning at $85.00 for a search. And their success rate seems quite good. Go check it out by clicking on: Lost Dog You'll be glad you did.

How to Care for Injured Birds

2010-09-01T07:30:00.000-07:00

Subtitle: How to care for and transport injured birds and other small wildlife.

Birds seen on the ground are treated differently than birds caught by your companion cat. The first part of this article is about finding a bird on the ground and deciding what to do. Secondly in this article I shall address the care of birds caught by your cat.

First and foremost, take a moment to discern if the bird is truly injured. Is it limping, dragging its wing or falling over? Then it probably is hurt. However, just because the little flier is perched on the ground does not mean it’s injured. If there is no evidence of injury leave it alone. The same rule of thumb goes for any other small animal. The accepted rule of thumb is the “20 minutes rule”. Observe the bird or other animal for about 20 minutes to really find out if it is injured and in need of rescue. It is important, especially in the case of small animals, to remember mothers often leave their young to feed and always return very shortly to continue caring for their babies. If you pick up and remove the baby you could do more harm than good.

If the baby bird has simply fallen from a nest, gently pick it up and return it to the proper nest. Do not fear leaving your scent on the bird and thus having the parent reject it. Birds, in general, are not able to smell very well and will not notice your fragrance on the fledgling. Note that many species of birds – robins, jays, towhees, for example – finish their growth and education at ground level. Thus just because you do find a fledgling on the ground is not reason enough to handle it. Remember the “20 minute rule”?

If you decide, following observation, that the bird or other animal is in fact injured and in need of care call a rehabilitation center. Your best bet for birds is the National Audubon Society (www.audubon.org). Often the Audubon Society site will point you to a local rehabilitation center. Give them a call and follow all directions.

Gently pick up the bird and place in a box or paper bag. Line the container with soft cloth or tissue and poke breathing holes in the side (small holes). If the bird is a nestling (small, no feathers or just fuzz and some pinfeathers) it needs a small, cup-shaped nest of tissue. The cup shape is important because they need the physical support. If they sprawl out they can be injured. Your bird is in shock and thus its body temp has dropped, so place the container in a warm and quiet place. A heating pad on low, on a hot water bottle or under a light is helpful for warming the nestling. Do not place the bird in direct sunlight – it can get too warm. The bird is not in need of food or water, and placing a bowl of water in the container can only add to its discomfort if the water spills. And, please, don’t keep peering inside the box or bag to check on the bird. And, as soon as possible transport your bird to the nearest rehabilitation center.

Now let’s discuss what to do when your cat brings you a prize bird, or you intervene before the final capture of the bird. The first question to answer is, is the bird dead? Often cats worry their prizes before presenting them to us, and the bird doesn’t survive. If the bird is still alive gently remove it from your cat’s reach. It is in shock, and a visual examination will not always tell you the extent of it’s injuries. So warm it up as quickly as possible. A box with tissue molded into a bowl shape is a great holder. Make sure the box has breathing holes and a top, and find a way to warm the box – heating pad or hot water bottle are ways. Do not handle the bird extensively. Through our handling we can cause further injury to broken wings/tail feathers/legs and place the bird into further shock.

As soon as the bird is settled call a wildlife rehabilitation group and follow all directions. On line you can get local links by going to the Audubon Society (www.audubon.org) or to NetPets (www.netpets.org/birds/birdresc/birdgrp.html) which is a consortium of groups dedicated to birds.

Other small wildlife your cat might hunt could include squirrels, bats, opossums, etc. All are at risk to our fearless feline hunters. And, just like with birds, the first order of business is to remove it from your cat’s reach. Remember to wear appropriate clothing – depending on the severity of injury and type of animal nips and scratches might be the name of the game. Use a smooth cloth to cover the head (lessening chances for nips and covering eyes to help relax the animal) and gently gather the animal, using as little pressure as possible. Then place it in a covered container. Remember to give it air holes and keep it warm (the old heating pad or hot water bottle trick, again). Just as with birds, no food or drink, and no peeking! Now, call your local wildlife rehabilitation center and follow all directions. This is the link to find national wildlife rehabilitation information: http://wildliferehabinfo.org/.

Each year our companion cats do quite a bit of damage to the local wildlife and songbird population. The cats are native hunters and only following their instincts. We, the companion animal owners, have a chance to offer respite and help to the injured animals our cats have caught. Let’s join together to offer support to those injured by our companion pets.

Keeping Cats From Catching Birds and Other Small Wildlife

2010-08-30T19:52:00.000-07:00

I have a good friend who, with his partner, two children and two cats, live aboard a boat. That in itself isn’t so very unusual - what is unusual is one of his cats lurks by the bow at dusk and just nips the bats going after insects right out of the air! Luckily for the bats, only one of the cats actually has any luck. So far, my friend has rescued three and lost two. So I started thinking about cats and catching birds. My research was frightening. Approximately 50 million wild birds are killed each year by cats in North America.

Now, as an animal lover I am presented with a dilemma. I want cats, who are natural predators, to be able to exhibit their instinctual behaviors, and I want the many birds who are drawn to bird-feeders, especially, to live long and healthy lives. So, here is what the research suggested.

First and foremost, the most common intervention suggested was a simple one – collar your cat with a bell attached to the collar. One site had an interesting addition – add two bells of slightly different size to the collar. It seems many cats become adept at stalking in such a way as to never ring the bell, but with two different bells, it’s much more difficult for the cat to be silenced. A study in the UK found belled cats significantly reduced bird kills (41%) and other small animal kills (34%). I’ve been thinking of offering to purchase a new, double belled collar for my neighbor cat – I really do want to continue filling my bird feeder!

The second suggestion was more aimed at the humans who feed the birds. Insure the bird feeders are located as bird-safely as possible. That means out of a cat’s reach – no window mounts, or hung from fences or branches. If staked, insure the stake is plastic or metal to prevent any cat from climbing it. Keep all feeders or birdbaths at least 10 feet from any bushes where the
cats can hide. Also, enclose bird feeders with chicken wire.

Prevent cats from entering your garden as much as possible. Use a motion detector hooked up to a water sprayer to frighten cats away, or plant cat-repellant plants such as lavender, lemon thyme or coleus (all non-toxic to animals), or plant prickly roses or cacti around the perimeter of your garden.

And, lastly, keep your cat indoors. Should you not want a totally indoor cat, insure your cat be indoors at dawn and dusk as these are the most active time for small birds and other wildlife. One site suggested holding stalking games for your indoor cat. By hiding treats around the house the cat can indulge in the hunt instinct safely. Also, hunting games – chasing a feather attached to a piece of yarn, etc – help keep indoor cats stimulated.

Some other “keep your cat indoors” ideas I found included leash-training your cat so they can experience the great outdoors with you, safely for both them and the resident wildlife population. And, lastly, build/purchase a cat enclosure (with a roof) that can be placed in both shade and sun, have climbing apparatus within it, and access to dirt. With such an enclosure your cat can safely enjoy being stretched out in the sun and the local wildlife population can also enjoy a snack from your resident diner.

I wish there was more information out there I could offer you. There were some devices I saw for sale , but I didn’t see any viable research on these devices, so I hesitate to suggest them. Any of you readers have any experience to share, especially about devices not mentioned?

My next post will be a companion one – what to do if you find an injured bird (inside or outside of your pet’s mouth!). Stay tuned

Our Pets and Poison Prevention, Part Four

2010-08-22T16:54:00.000-07:00

If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, or has somehow ingested some form of toxic substance the first and most important rule is:

Don’t panic.
While it is quite important to act quickly, your panic will only interfere with your ability to respond and also put a greater stress on your pet as they pick up on your emotionality. So, breathe slowly, talk to your pet softy and slowly, and move smoothly and gently.

Then take the few seconds you need to safely bag up an example of whatever your pet ingested – the container, if possible, or sample of whatever plant or other substance you suspect your pet ate/breathed/rolled in/whatever.

If your pet’s symptoms include life-threatening ones, such as seizures, losing consciousness, or difficulty breathing, immediately take your pet to your veterinarian. If possible, phone ahead so the staff at your vet’s can begin preparing the equipment they will need to save your pet’s life. If possible, take with you the bag of recovered poison your pet ingested. This will support the vet staff in helping your pet.

In the absence of life-threatening symptoms you might wish to phone the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. Their number is 1-888-426-4435. They are available for 24 hour consultation for a $65.00 fee.

The ASPCA Poison Control Center needs the following information to better help you in the consultation:
- Species, breed, age, sex, weight of animal involved
- Animal’s symptoms
- Any exposure information you might have – what the substance is, amount of substance ingested, time frame of ingestion
- If possible, have the substance packaging – it may prove helpful.

Pet First Aid Kit
Here is a list of the most basic items necessary for a pet first aid kit.
1. The phone number and address of your local veterinarian.
2. The phone number of the
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center – 888-426-4435
3. Fresh bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3% solution USP to induce vomiting
4. Turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe to administer peroxide.
5. Saline eye solution.
6. Artificial tear get to lubricate eyes after flushing.
7. Mind grease cutting dish washing liquid for bathing an animal after skin contamination.
8. Forceps to remove stingers
9. Muzzle to protect against fear/excitement biting.
10. Can of wet food.
11. Pet carrier.

Usually you will be told by your veterinarian when, how and why to use each item in the above list. It is important to consult with your veterinarian for explicit directions on the use of first aid items.

Our companion animals depend on us for their safety, as well for food and shelter, love and play. It is vital we understand the dangers which surround them, and are prepared for the emergencies. Those emergencies do strike. With proper preparation we can mitigate the awful effects of them.

Our Pets and Poison Prevention, Part Three

2010-08-20T12:26:00.001-07:00

For the past two posts I have outlined the plants, both indoor and outdoor, which are toxic to our pets. Now I wish to examine the other toxic household substances which are so easily found by inquisitive paws/claws and noses.

Human medications are by far the leading pet poison, above plants or insecticides. This surprised me until I realized human meds include over-the-counter pain killers and allergy relievers. However, any medication not specifically made for animal use, and dosed for a specific animal can have quite deleterious effects. Cats, especially, enjoy playing with prescription bottles and contents can become emptied. However, any animal can come across a loose topped prescription bottle, or stray pills on counter top or floor. And since their sense of smell and taste incite different responses than ours, easily gobble up what is available. To their detriment.

Insecticides are the second leading cause of pet poisoning. Unfortunately, it is often in the misuse of pet flea products that we put our companion animals most at risk. Often by applying the wrong product to the wrong species. Please check with your veterinarian prior to beginning any form of flea and tick control.

Surprisingly to me, human food ranked third in this list of most common pet poisons. Specific foods: grapes, raisins, avocado and any food/gum/candy containing xylitol is seriously disabling to our pets. More importantly, our good friend chocolate is more than disabling, it is toxic in large enough quantities. Our furry friends usually love chocolate, so look for symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination, hyperactivity and get your pet to the vet prior to the abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures begin.

Now we come to plants. Please see my other two posts for the lists of toxic plants.

Veterinary medicines are fifth on this list. Usually this is because the meds are often misapplied and/or dispensed by the anxious pet parent. Even nutritional supplements need to be taken as prescribed. And be sure to check with your vet if you are unsure of ways or how to give the med to your pet.

Rodenticides are poisons by their very nature. And attractive to other furry creatures – the mice and rats we are trying to eliminate. Please use extreme caution when bating with rodenticides. Use a control box, staked to the ground, with an entry too small for your pet to nose or paw into. There are several, of various sizes, on the market available for use with home pets.

Household cleaners are as toxic to our companion pets as to the adults and children in the household. Bleach, detergents, disinfectants are the main culprits. But please remember, the spray cleansers are inhaled by both you – the scourer – and the furry friend at your side.

Heavy metals, such as lead, zinc and mercury surprised me. I don’t know why – I know about the dangers of lead paint ingestion by children. However, linoleum, various consumer products – especially electronics – are also toxic if chewed upon, as well as paint chips and the dust of older homes when lead-based paint is scraped.

Garden products, such as the fertilizer and weed killer can cause gastric problems and sometimes obstructions to our outdoor furry friends.

Chemicals in use about the home are common. The most common is antifreeze as it’s sweet. However, pool/spa chemicals, paint thinner, drain cleaners can burn pets as well as cause gastrointestinal upset and respiratory difficulties.

Whew. What a list! My next post shall be about what to do in the event of accidental poisoning and also list the contents of a pet first aid kit. In the meantime, please become familiar with these potential dangers to our companion animals. Look around you, insure you have made your home as safe for your furry/feathered/scaled friend as you can. Their lives depend on you. Thanks.

Our Pets and Poison Prevention, Part Two

2010-08-19T17:45:00.000-07:00

There are several aspects to learning about plants and other substances which are toxic to our companion animals.

First is identifying the most common plants which are used in both interior and exterior landscaping.

Secondly is the necessity to identify other common household substances which are pet-toxic.

Thirdly is to create a poison-relief plan.

And finally, to list the contents of an average pet first-aid kit.

I have already listed the 10 most common garden plants which are toxic to our pets, and the symptoms they produce. At this point I wish to add to that list of poisonous to pets plants. Now, this is quite a long list – which is one reason I broke it into two parts.

Aconite – common garden flower – the whole plant is toxic.
Apple – normally only the seeds are dangerous.
Arrowgrass – marshloving plants whose leaves are dangerous.
Atropa Belladonna – herb whose seeds and roots especially are toxic.
Autumn Crocus – the entire plant, bulb, flower, leaves and all.
Baneberry – wildflower with roots and berries which are toxic.
Bird of Paradise – the pods are poisonous.
Black Locust – large deciduous tree whose bark and roots are especially toxic, however the whole plant is inedible.
Bloodroot – herb which is toxic with stems and roots being most poisonous.
Boxwood – hedge-like shrub whose leaves, especially, are toxic.
Buckeye – tree with toxic sprouts, nuts and seeds.
Buttercup – wildflower/herb which is entirely toxic.
Caladium – colorful houseplant which is entirely toxic.
Carolina Jessamine – flowers and leaves are toxic.
Chinaberry Tree – berries are toxic.
Chockcherries – wild shrub with toxic leaves, cherries and pits.
Christmas Rose – flower with poisonous leaves and rootstock.
Common Privet – toxic leaves and berries.
Corn Cockle – wildflower/herb with toxic seeds.
Cowbane – wildflower/herb which is completely toxic.
Daphne – sweetly fragranced shrub with toxic bark, berries and leaves.
Death Camas – field herb with toxic leaves, stems, seeds and flowers.
Delphinium – wildflower that is completely toxic.
Dumbcane (dieffenbachia) houseplant which is totally toxic.
Dutchmans’s Breeches – toxic roots and leaves.
Elderberry –
Tree with toxic leaves, bark, roots and buds.
Elephant’s Ear – toxic in it’s entirety.
English Ivy – totally poisonous, with leaves and berries being of greater danger.
European Bittersweet – poisonous vine with especially toxic berries.
False Flax – wild herb with toxic seeds.
False Hellebore – toxic roots, seeds and leaves.
Fan Weed – toxic seeds.
Field Peppergrass – herb with toxic seeds.
Flax – herb with toxic seedpods.
Foxglove – flower with toxic leaves.
Holly – tree/shrub with toxic berries.
Horsechestnut – tree with toxic nuts and sprouts.
Horse Nettle – herb which is entirely toxic.
Hyacinth – fragrant flowering bulb with toxic bulbs.
Iris = either wild or cultivated, leaves and roots are toxic.
Jack-in-the-pulpit – complete plant is toxic.
Jatrophia – toxic seeds.
Jerusalem Cherry – toxic un-ripened fruit and leaves.
Jimsonweed – field plant which is completely toxic.
Laburum – toxic seeds, pods and flowers.
Lantana – toxic foliage.
Larkspur – only the immature plants are toxic.
Laurels – toxic leaves.
Lupines – toxic seeds and pods.
Manchineel Tree – toxic sap and fruit.
Mayapple – toxic un-ripened fruit, toxic leaves and roots.
Milk Vetch – toxic in entirety.
Mistletoe – toxic berries.
Monkshood – toxic in its entirety.
Moodseed – toxic vine, especially the fruit and roots.
Morning Glory – climbing vine/wildflower with toxic seeds and roots.
Mountain Mahogany – toxic leaves.
Mustards – toxic seeds.
Narcissus – toxic bulbs.
Nicotiana – toxic leaves.
Nightshade – vile with toxic leaves and berries.
Oaks – toxic leaves and shoots.
Philodendrons – total plant toxic.
Pokeweek – toxic roots, seeds and berries.
Poinsettia – toxic leaves, flowers and stems.
Poison Hemlock – just what it says.
Potato Vine – toxic shoots and sprouts.
Rattle Box – in it’s entirety toxic.
Rhubarb – toxic leaves.
Rosary Pea – toxic seeds.
Skunk Cabbage – marsh plnt which is toxic in its entirety.
Smart Weeks – toxic sap.
Snow-on-the-Mountain – toxic sap.
Sorghum – type of grass with toxic leaves.
Star of Bethlehem – toxic in its entirety.
Velvet Grass – type of grass with toxic leaves.
Wild Black Cherry – tree with toxic leaves and pits.
Wild Radish – toxic seeds.
Wisteria – toxic seeds and pods.
Woody Aster – toxic in its entirety.
Yellow Jessamine – toxic in its entirety.
Yellow Pine Flax – toxic in its entirety.

This list has been compiled from the following sources: EarthClinic Folk Remedies, American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Toronto Humane Society, St. John’s Poison Resource Center, Humane Society of the United States.

Next post I shall continue to discuss the final three subjects necessary to maintaining a toxic-free and safe for our companion animals home - the necessity to identify other common household substances which are pet-toxic, the creation of a poison-relief plan, and finally, listing the contents of an average pet first-aid kit.

Support The Cause Of Your Choice Just By Browsing!

2010-08-18T13:55:00.000-07:00

Yes, yes, I know I said I'd be writing about plants which are toxic to our pets - and, believe me, I do have lots still to say on that subject.

But until I get back to my research I wanted to request my fearless readers to check out the banner on the upper righthand side of the page - GlobalMojo. This is a link to a free browser download, based on the Mozilla Firefox browser, which simply by using it, will allow you to painlessly support the charity of your choice.

I checked it out - safety and reliability - and liked it. So now I'm using GlobalMojo. I set my charity of choice to be the World Wildlife Fund - but there are lots of other choices.

Go ahead, check it out. See what good you can so painlessly do. Oh, and did I mention this browser download is a freebie? Too cool.

Common Toxic Garden Plants; AKA Our Pets and Poison Prevention, Part One

2010-08-17T16:47:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I was playing in my garden, yanking out overgrown plants, trimming some others which were “keepers” and thinking about where I would be planting those fall bulbs. My dog was cavorting thru the mess I’d made quite happily, dashing in and out of the trimmings, shaking the uprooted plants to their very death – until I noticed him suddenly start drooling, shaking and drooping - quite lethargic. Then it occurred to me… I’d been trimming the underside of my azalea – a poisonous plant to animals! Yuck! Now, following a trip to the vet, my pup is fine, but that started me thinking about the plants we use in our gardens to surround us with beauty and how lethal they can be to our companion animals.

So, I’ve done some research and there is so much important info out there, I’m thinking I’ll do several columns on this subject.

Today I want to simply mention the ten most toxic garden plants and the symptoms they create.

1: Lilies – yukky for cats, especially – creating kidney damage
2: Marijuana – vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, increased heart rate, depression of central nervous system, possibly seizure and coma.
3: Sago Palm – most especially the nuts are toxic, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures and liver failure.
4: Tulip and other bulbs – drooling, loss of appetite, depression of central nervous system, convulsions, cardiac arrest.
5: Azalea and/or Rhododendron – vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and depression of central nervous system. Can lead to death from cardiovascular collapse.
6: Oleander – gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia.
7: Castor Bean – only the bean – abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, and if sever, dehydration, muscle twitching, tremors, seizures, coma and death.
8: Cyclamen – usually the root portion is most toxic - gastrointestinal irritation, vomiting.
9: Kalanchoe – gastrointestinal irritation, effect cardiac rate and rhythm.
10. Yew – trembling, in-coordination, difficulty breathing, gastrointestinal irritation, cardiac failure resulting in death.

Stay tuned for more info on plant toxicity and ways to help, places to go, friends to call in time of need.

Boating Safety and Your Dog

2010-08-14T12:19:00.000-07:00

Now that it's summer I'm seeing so many dogs with their owners out on the lake. Yesterday I watched a kayaker and her Yorkie paddle around the cove, idling slowly thru the water. Looked like she was helping her dog become used to the rocking movement of the boat. Cool. However, I was saddened to see the dog had no life vest on. Now, Yorkies are adorable little dogs, and I think that's the key - they are little. What if a large boat going fast and creating quite a wake rushes by - not even close to the kayak? The resulting waves might be enough to unsettle the small footing of the Yorkie and over she goes, into the drink. Could the kayaker actually get back to her pet soon enough to haul her back into the boat before the little one succumbed to exhaustion? Never mind how fearful the dog would be from the experience. That's where life vests come in.

So I researched on line for possible solutions and found this example of a life vest with rescue handle on the top - so easy for the owner to reach out and snag pup to haul aboard. This life vest for dogs comes in all sizes and looked like it strapped securely, thus no wriggling and frightened animal could slide out. Sounds like a winner to me. Check it out.

Spay or Neuter Your Pet

2010-08-13T13:55:00.000-07:00

OK, Today I'm on a rant - the need to spay or neuter your pet. Did you know that in the United States alone about every 8 seconds a pet is put down? Or that 6 to 8 million pets enter shelters annually, again in the United States alone?

The way to solve this travesty is to spay or neuter your pet. After all, you are the only one who can. Your pet can't sashay down to the local vet and plump down their credit card and order up their own spay or neuter.

The recommended age for spay or neutering is between 2 to 6 months. Females do not need to have a litter prior to being spayed. Please see your local veterinarian to set up an appointment. If money is an object then there are several low cost options.

Low cost options:
1. call your local animal shelter or humaine society for information
2. call SPAY/USA, a nation wide spay/neuter referral network:
1-800-248 SPAY (7729) or http://www.spayusa.org
3. call a veterinarian and discuss financing options
4. Friends of Animals offer discounted spay/neuter vouchers:
1-800-321-PETS (7387) http://www.friendsofanimals.org

Working together we can move closer to a goal of every animal living in a loving and safe home.

Grieving the Loss of Your Departed Pet

2010-08-12T17:06:00.000-07:00

While perusing the web today I was thinking about the great sadness a friend of mind who had recently lost her Lhasa Apso companion of 16 years was experiencing. She had been phoning me daily deeply into her grief and loss. And I have been wondering just what I could offer her at this point. It has been almost a week, and it seems like my friend is beginning to feel awkward around others because her grief is still so heavy.

So I was really excited to come across a small book written by Robin Jean Brown. She has intimately experienced this devastating loss of her companion pet. And also was harried by her friends and family misunderstanding the depth of sadness and loss of connection such a loss brings. In finding a way through her grief she came up with a four step program, which she entitles, "ROAR"

ROAR: 1. respect your loss
            2. own your reality
            3. affirm yourself
    4. reclaim yourself

Now, I'm not going to do a full book review - let me just say this is a great book. So if you or someone you know is suffering from the grief and loss of the death of their pet companion, please Click Here! You'll be glad you did! I sure was. I can hardly wait to gift this book to my friend.

Dog On-Leash Aggression: AKA Leash Reactivity

2010-08-11T17:30:00.000-07:00

I'm owned by my silky terrier. I'll bet most of us with dogs in our lives feel in some way or another "owned" by our pets. However, I have a problem - my little dog has Leash Reactivity. That means all 15 pounds of him becomes a quivering mass of snarls, growls and lunging toward any other dog within sight whenever we go for a walk. And he's normally such a polite and friendly dog - just not while on leash.

So, here's what I've learned about On-Leash Aggression, or Leash Reactivity:

Any breed - purebred or not - and either sex can suffer from this behavior. Most of the Trainers with whom I spoke indicated that the aggressive behavior noted on-leash stemmed from how the dogs needed to approach each other while on leash. Let me explain. Off leash socializing dogs approach each other slightly off-center, in a curved shape. This sideways stance allows easy access to nose then hindquarters sniffing. Also, dogs approaching each other "introduce" themselves by varying their pace, slightly wag, hesitate, approach following the wagging of the other dog, with head cocked gently sideways and lowered in "play stance".

On-leash dogs, on the other hand, must approach each other straight on, gaze directly forward toward the other dog. In dog-speak that's a Challenge. Then, the approaching dogs are unable to scent each other fully - the curling around nose to hindquarters scenting - so are unable to follow any dog-protocol for neighborly behavior. As a consequence, some dogs interpret the approach of any other dog as a threat, which results in the display of the aggressive, leash reactive behavior.

So: what to do???

1. Walk your dog during "off" hours.
2. Distracting: Small dogs, like my terrier, can be picked up during that part of the walk. Not the best solution, but prevents fights.Larger dogs can be led between parked cars or cross the street to prevent interaction. Again, not the best solution but can prevent fights.
3. Specialized training. One on one training that supports you, the owner, in recognizing the pre-reactive stage in your dog so you can intervene quickly. Followed by training which supports you in leading your dog into alternate, non-reactive behavior when approached by other dogs.

Seems to me I have a relationship for life with my dog. Investing in the time to learn how to support him in feeling comfortable while out in the world is an investment worth making.